Zoe Reich-Avillez ‘15, on how a favorite farm task transforms the mundane:
I first worked on a farm (rather, I first stepped foot on a farm) during my freshman year of high school. The trip to Gaining Ground was posted on a school bulletin board under “Community Service.” Gaining Ground, the sign proclaimed, is a non-profit farm that donates all its food to local food banks and meal programs. Located just ten minutes from my high school, it was the perfect destination for a mid-afternoon volunteer shift. Never one to turn down an outdoor field trip in early spring, I immediately signed up. Looking back now, the memories of that short shift are beyond foggy. What I do remember though, is the feeling of being engaged in manual work. I couldn’t articulate it then, but something just felt so right about working my hands through the soil and crouching over a bed of newly planted seedlings.
A year later, I heard about Gaining Ground’s summer internship. I had barely given my workday a second thought, but remembering that still-so-poignant feeling, I decided to apply. Through the summer, I weeded, planted, harvested, weeded, prepped beds, and weeded some more. As any farmer will tell you—and as I discovered that summer—there will always be more weeding.
For some reason though, I relished that never-ending task. What is often the bane of the farmhand’s existence became my favorite job: hand weeding. Massaging the soil, grasping for weeds, pulling the unwanted plants from their roots, and finally looking back to see a bed of head lettuce surrounded by dark brown soil, was deeply satisfying. I found myself looking forward to the days when I would be sent out to the field, with or without a partner, to weed for hours on end. Even now, when I crave a task that is comforting, that will re-orient me with myself, I crouch down in a pathway, dig my hands into the soil, and start to weed.
When I try to understand my love of hand weeding, I often turn to the physicality of the work. Search and pull, search and pull. So easily, I can lose myself in the repetition, in the sheer simplicity of the action. At my best though, it is not just my body put to work; my mind too, is engaged in that repetition and simplicity. When I say that I lose myself in the task then, I mean that I am completely and totally present. I’m reminded what it is to find home in myself. This groundedness, I now realize, is the feeling of “rightness” that I knew but couldn’t name during my first shift at Gaining Ground. Now, I know its name and I know it’s what keeps me coming back to the farm time and time again.
The Yale Farm, Hyperlinked
by Adam Goff ‘15
None of the tomato varieties grown at the Yale Farm are light blue. Our hoes, broadforks, seeders, and shovels aren’t blue either. The pizza oven is made of red bricks, the sinks shine a titanium silver. There are no blue eggplants, blue beets, blue compost piles, or blue weeds. Aside from a couple pairs of jeans, one or two blue harvest buckets, and the sky above us, the farm is blue-less.
Yet I often expect to see light blue hues on the farm to mark all of the hyperlinks. On Wikipedia, Facebook, and much of the web, light blue marks a hyperlinked word, which when clicked will whisk you to another article. I can hyperlink surf from a Wikipedia page on Cooking to an article on Caramelization and end up reading about Aminio Acids. Light blue text marks a portal from one idea to another.
On the farm I see these hyperlinks everywhere. Our Winter Mustard Greens link me to Season Extension which takes me to Canadian Hothouse Tomatoes and their Ecological Footprint. When I am Weeding my mind hops from Migrant Farm Labor to Unionization. I weigh fresh-picked Cabbages and wonder how to improve Yield Data Collection on Diversified Vegetable Farms.
I look at our one-acre urban farm and I see nested ideas and stories, one connected to the next connected to another, just waiting to be clicked on. So don’t be surprised if you dig up one of a Yale Farm potatoes and find it tinged light blue. Be curious, for that blue potato isn’t crawling with mold and disease. It is brimming with connections for you to explore. All you have to do is click.
Yale Farm vs. Nemo
Some pictures from intern Emily Farr of the impact Nemo’s 34” snowfall had on the Yale Farm last weekend. We were thrilled to weather Irene and Sandy with minimal damage, but didn’t get quite so lucky this time, as one of our hoophouses’ metal frames collapsed under the weight of the snow. We’re in the process of digging out and moving on, and so glad to have two more hoophouses to grow winter greens in for the rest of the season!
Farm intern Maya Binyam ‘15 on what her Ethiopian father taught her about what it means to depend on the land:
Boston is a cold city. In the winter months a biting humidity saturates the air, threatening to freeze car locks and the tips of hair. The sunlight is static, even in the summer, and reflects but never warms.
In this landscape of fractured water and light, my father attempted to make a home. He cranked up the heat and filled the rooms of our house with things he knew would never survive outside—dainty potted basil plants, an ugly bulb too big for its pot. He was proud of this thing he had created for us—this warm oasis—because it meant we were no longer affected by Boston’s characteristically sporadic temperature declines, its unexpected noreasters. We were comfortable.
After a few months he stopped watering the plants. The leaves wilted and eventually turned brittle, but this was something to be proud of. We had begun cultivating things outside of the home, things more important than plants. We were going somewhere.
Farm intern Justine Appel ‘15 on why caring about food and agriculture doesn’t make her a hipster:
When I found out I was going to be a summer intern at the Yale Farm, I felt like I had secured a dream summer for myself: working outdoors, growing and eating wonderful food, and learning from and with people who cared as much about sustainable agriculture as I did. After volunteering on the farm throughout my freshman year, I was seriously looking forward to further developing my comprehension of the problems and challenges of our food system. But around the same time my interest in the sustainable food movement heightened, I started noticing a strong, adverse reaction to it.
One morning, I opened the Yale Daily News magazine to find myself labeled a pretentious hipster. When I expressed my frustration with factory farming to one of my close friends, she told me that I was developing extremist tendencies. When I told my mom that I was going to try to eat more seasonally, she became defensive about buying strawberries in December. “Don’t you like strawberries, Justine?”
Whether being gently mocked by a Portlandia episode or accused of attempting to make food into some sort of religion or art form, I can’t seem to escape the stereotypes associated with passion for farming and concern for how we can feed seven billion mouths without contaminating our air, water, and soil. What I thought were good intentions are often perceived as idealist, naive, and, most disturbingly, elitist.
I reject being placed in special category of people who think about the way they eat, one that is characterized by privilege and even by extravagance. Being food conscious is not something inherently white, wealthy, or seductively bohemian. Moreover, such a discourse is dangerous because it strips everyone outside a certain social category of his or her agency to eat well, affordably, and ethically. Accepting that eating sustainably and locally is somehow bourgeois is both denying history and legitimizing a system that restricts access to fresh, healthy food within poor communities.
Don’t dismiss the sustainable food movement because it seems like a hipster’s cause. People who think of it that way will tell you that you can’t afford to buy organic. But with the world population expected to reach 9 billion within our generation’s lifetime, what we really can’t afford is ignorance or denial of the agricultural challenges ahead. No, we probably can’t feed the world on small-scale organic farms, but we certainly can’t go on burning more fossil fuels in order to have our winter strawberries while 870 million people go undernourished. We should strive to create a world where no one is too poor, too disadvantaged, or most importantly, too busy to exercise their right to healthy food.
Photo via. Farm intern Shizue Roche-Adachi ‘15 on horses, cattle, and finding yourself by figuring out what to do next:
I held the reigns tentatively as my weight settled into the saddle. The horse was larger then I remembered horses being and I felt precarious as I sat perched upon his back, my legs splayed awkwardly. Boot was restless and I could feel him fidget beneath me. He stomped hard, frustrated, and my eyes went wide. We had lied, saying I was comfortably proficient in horseback riding; my friend wanted me to see this desert of his and the cowboy seemed to trust me enough to fib a little to the others. Truthfully, I hadn’t ridden a horse since elementary school, when a teenage girl had lead me around in circles at one of those roadside farm attractions you find in places that have little else to offer in the way of entertainment. But here it was just open desert: no circles, no trails. We set off, the three of us, my back arching uncomfortably with Boot’s stride. My friend split away in search of a rogue cow who had found its way west and the cowboy and I continued on. I could feel his eyes watching me as I tried my best to fake my commands.
By the time we came to the cattle, Boot’s patience with me was waning. The cows freckled the mountain top, a scattering of brown bodies that stood like statues, their weight sinking into their hips as if they had been promised permanence. “Alright, I guess I’ll take up here and you move down there.” I looked at the cowboy and realized this was not time for faltering confidence—I didn’t understand exactly what I was “taking” but I watched him as he galloped west, wrapping around the cattle, pushing them towards me. I gave Boot a hard kick and he started off with a jolt, nearly throwing me, doing my best to mimic the cowboy as I struggled to reign Boot in.
By the time my friend rejoined us, the cowboy had managed to edge the cattle north, beginning their reluctant migration towards the path that would eventually lead them down to the valley. I, however, was in a battle with Boot. He wasn’t listening, breaking into a gallop in the opposite direction I lead him in as if to mock me. I pulled at the reigns, silently hoping he would forgive me for pulling so sharply at the bit, and yelled “woah”s, but he was stubborn, unamused. My friend chuckled but offered little advice; there was work to be done and so I would have to figure it out by myself.
It took a good two hours before the cattle were rounded up, trailing single file down the mountain. When the valley finally opened up, I caught my breath; it was the most majestic and unforgiving landscape I had ever encountered. The sun was dipping low, now, and the light was colored in honey. “Pretty great, isn’t it?!” my friend shouted from behind me. Despite the vastness of the place there was an undeniable warmth to it.
I can’t be sure what changed his mind but suddenly Boot seemed to hear me— suddenly, he trusted me. We moved together; my body rose and fell in a steady rhythm as I cantered behind the mass of cattle. Sweat dripped down Boot’s back and I gave him a reassuring pat. He followed my lead as I yelled “hey, cow, cow” and chased the cattle towards the green oasis that was our goal, the cowboy’s trailer marking its boundary.
By the time we arrived at the trailer we could only make it out by silhouette, the moon casting shadows as we quietly dismounted. I wore an almost embarrassingly wide smile, the kind that only comes with the sort of self-satisfaction you can’t quite describe in concrete accomplishments. When the cowboy finally came to lead Boot away to tie him up for the night, I gave up his lead rope reluctantly.
Sometimes, on Fridays at the Yale Farm, I find myself overwhelmed with the never-ending harvest list. As pounds of salad greens make their way into the prophaus to be washed and bagged I start to finger the list’s pages tentatively. But there is work to be done, no time for wavering morale, and so you walk forward with blind faith, hoping that somehow the carrots yield to the hands of unsure volunteers and the aphids ignore the Brussels sprouts. There is something familiar in the feeling, in that trust. I’ve worked on farms for many years, now, but I still only know what I’m doing 60% of the time. I just have to trust that that other 40% will work itself out.
By the time the light is fading, the KoolBot is full with crates of produce and bags of greens. Somehow it happens, every week, without fail. By the end of a Friday harvest, a grin spread across my face, the music turned up a bit too loudly not to be noticed by the occasional passersby, I find myself reluctant to leave, hoping that the light might linger.
I never thought I’d end up farming, and I definitely never thought I’d help drive a herd of cattle into a desert valley, but somehow I ended up doing both. I’m never quite sure of my steps as I’m taking them, but I seem to have learned to trust myself at least enough for even Boot to believe.
Pizza and Events intern Onagh MacKenzie ‘15, who grew up on a sprawling rural livestock farm, on how she learned to appreciate the bite-sized Yale version:
Farming, to me, has always meant land. Lots of it. It has meant being able to turn 360 degrees and not see a man-made structure. Or hear anything other than the cows and their cud.
When my parents moved to Naples, New York over thirty years ago, they bought half an old dairy farm, the worn-in house, and its fifty acres. My brother has since used the entire farm, our fields and woods, along with the other original half, to establish his own sustainable meat farm. No more of my dad’s disorganized, motley crew of Scottish Highland cows. We have a “real” farm operation now, with ear tags and rotating pastures and three strands of fencing instead of one. (Sometimes I find myself missing the weekly call from the neighbors telling us our cows were in the road, or, sometimes, their garden.)
The main constraint on my brother’s operation hasn’t been lack of manpower or customers, but land. The 100 acres have long ceased to be enough. The cows and sheep now spill over onto neighboring land which we lease from its owners. To compensate for the distance in grass, we need to have sheep road moves between pastures. “Sheep in the Road” signs go up on either end of the journey, and in the middle it’s a sea of wooly bodies, swarming around the cars and invading the ditches. We’re reminded just how much we could use those extra acres of our own.
The idea that a farm could exist without acres of fields and with sidewalks, passing traffic, and a city skyline in the distance was a foreign concept to me. Urban farming seemed too much of an incongruity. Then I found my way to the Yale Farm. Instead of road sheep moves, we have perfectly aligned greenhouses and beds of veggies measured to take advantage of every last patch of earth. At 345 Edwards Street, lack of land is an inspiration: rather than focusing on what we don’t have, the small space encourages innovation.
But it’s more than just a space to be utilized: the Farm is a space to enjoy, a space to appreciate farming for more than just its fields and its time in nature. At the Yale Farm I have learned to love sustainable agriculture for its desire to spread good food and to appreciate where it comes from. The Farm is a space for the people, and the parts of friends that only come out when picking carrots. Space for the pause in my life that Friday afternoons provide, a time to breathe after the sprint of the week. And you know what? When I’m bent over in the garden bed, proudly checking out the dirt under my fingernails, or with my head stuck in the pizza oven, monitoring the cooking dough, I don’t even notice the skyline.
Pizza and Events intern Katie Harmer ‘15 writes about discovering that farming runs in her family. Above is a photo of her mother tending her garden in 1976!
Sitting around the dinner table in early June, I was bragging to my parents about all the lettuce seeds I had planted at a local farm that day. My father turned to me and said, “you know, Katie, your mom had quite the vegetable garden back in the day.” I was stunned—I had always thought of myself as the only farmer in our family. I then made my mom reveal every detail of her “secret” garden and the life that went with it.
In her days as a young mother, well before my time, my mom fed her family of six with her vegetable garden. Her garden was so big (and her yard so small) that she expanded to her grandmother’s land. She baked her own bread, canned her own fruit, and froze her own vegetables. The supermarket only got her dollar for meat, dairy, and grain.
The neighbors thought she was crazy when she ordered a full dump truck of leaves and let them compost in the back yard. Her kids thought she was crazy when she made them “zucchini chocolate cake.” Her sister thought she was crazy was she refused cane sugar. But as my mom told me about the leaves, the cake, and the sugar, I knew just what she meant.
2 cups white sugar
3/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
2 teaspoons baking soda
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
4 eggs
1 1/2 cups vegetable oil
3 cups grated zucchini
Stir together the dry ingredients. Add the eggs and oil. Fold in the zucchini. Bake for 50 to 60 minutes in a 9x13” baking pan in a 350 degree oven.
Layers of Getting to Know
Photography intern Elif Erez ‘15 on how she sees (and knows) the Farm through her camera. Check out some of her photographs!
My grandfather believes that each photograph steals a bit of your soul. He’ll exclaim “that’s enough!” if you snap more than a couple shots of family group pictures, and will grumble fiercely if a camera gets within portrait range.
Although I wouldn’t like to think of myself as a soul-snatcher, I find a bit of truth in my grandfather’s superstition. Having the cold, opaque eye of a camera focus its gaze on you makes you feel naked and exposed. Eye contact plays such a large role in establishing equal grounds in social interactions that, when you find yourself gazing back at an unrevealing, mechanical appendage instead of the eyes of your observer, you’re thrown off. You have given something of yourself, and can’t receive anything in return.
This unconditional giving is what the photograph captures; it’s a part of you that can’t be expressed in words, but that is accessible to others in the exchange of a gaze.
Sometimes, what you’ve unconsciously offered in a photograph comes from somewhere deeper than what you let out in regular eye contact. I find it fascinating to discover that, in an exchange as brief as a snapshot, I’ve unpeeled and gotten to know a layer of someone’s being that would otherwise be inaccessible.
Working as the YSFP Farm photographer, I’ve experienced a way of photographing that I was unfamiliar with—shooting the same people and the same place, week after week. What I’ve learned through this experience is that each layer of the Farm that I uncover (or each “snippet of soul I snatch from the Farm,” as my grandfather would call it) is entirely different than the last one. Unexpectedly, the fragments I’ve gathered don’t add up to build a complete picture of the place and its people—what they do instead is let me burrow into its depths, and allow me to get to know it slowly, piece by piece.
“Getting to know” is not a linear process; it’s a repetitive action, possible only through returning and noticing the change in what you’ve returned to. Walk over a well-worn path again, and you’ll realize it’s not the same path. See the same person every day, and realize that they’ll never stop surprising you with a side of them you hadn’t known before. If you’ve volunteered at Yale Farm once, do it again; it’s not going to be the same place when you return. Come back to the Farm, dig a hand in its dirt: get to know it better.
This year’s rescheduled Harvest Festival went on under grey skies after a long, tough week for much of the eastern seaboard. The storm had reminded all of us how perilous the human relationship to the environment can be— and that for farmers, like Bren Smith, whose Long Island Sound oyster crop was all but destroyed, environmental catastrophe can wreck livelihoods as easily as it can destroy property and take lives. Communities along the coast are coming together to care for one another, and it felt powerful and right to have the Yale Farm family spend the afternoon eating, drinking, and dancing together: undaunted by storm clouds, united in celebration.
